Altnabreac railway station …
… a place girded round by peat-black lochs and dismal bogs and overshadowed by dark, anonymous plantations of doomed conifers, where nothing of any note has happened these past 70 years save for intense despondent brooding.
Wills, Dixe (2014) Tiny Stations.
So not a cheery place.
The four-hour rail journey from Inverness to Wick is familiar now, but this is the first time the train has stopped here. Is there a more desolate place on the rail network? Endless bog stretches in all directions, and yet, I’m drawn. In a moment of madness, I consider a wild camping stopover, researching local hikes before concluding there are none of interest, and I have a world to explore.
Next day
I’ve now hiked a continuous path clockwise from John O’Groats to Corrour Station, just outside Fort William, with one gap remaining — 22 miles between Berriedale and Whaligoe, encompassing three sections of the John O’Groats Trail (“JOGT”).
Despite catching the 06:58 bus south from Wick, I’m not sure I’ll be able to complete the route in time to make the last bus back to Wick. I ask the driver if I can flag down a bus anywhere on my return journey,
“Well, I’d pick you up, but another driver might not stop.”
Hah, I’ll not risk that. Stagecoach is not West Coast Motors.
The walk begins with a fun bouncing bridge at Berriedale.
A small dog ignores the sign.
There’s a calf-burning climb out of the valley. It feels good to return to dramatic coast walking, the trail hugging the cliff edge, rising and falling, birds circling far below.
The path is well-maintained, with handy bridges and stiles. Who can resist an invitation to open a mysterious box? I add my details to the log of JOGT hikers.
The views are magnificent, despite the grey sky and light rain.
I’m not sure if I should be in the grounds of stylish Dunbeath Castle.
Sitting at Dunbeath harbour, enjoying an ice-cold Coke and Bounty from the post office, I’m way behind schedule. Too many stops to enjoy the scenery? There’s no way I’ll reach Whaligoe today. I don’t mind, as I have an excuse to return to this beautiful coastline.
At first glance, it looks as though a sheep is trapped on the cliff face next to a dramatic cave entrance, but there are others in similar positions dotted on the steep slopes. Is that grass tastier than the abundant grass on the top? Strange creatures.
The clifftop path reveals fabulous sandstone stacks.
Some landowners refuse to allow the trail to cross their land, so I’m briefly forced onto the A99, meeting Jordan Lefley hiking in the opposite direction on his John O’Groats to Land’s End charity walk for the Yorkshire Air Ambulance team. It’s early days and he’s struggling, already abandoning the “in and out” of the coast path for easier road walking to cover more distance. A little soul-destroying though.
Shortly after, a man walks down the verge toward me, making eye contact. He introduces himself as Jay, chairman of the committee of volunteers that looks after the JOGT. They do an excellent job. He’s keen for feedback, and we chat pleasantly, walking back to his car, before I rejoin the path running down into the small harbour at Latheronwheel.
Down and up. Up and down. Happy memories of the South West Coast Path and the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. There’s not much left of Forse Castle.
A rustling in the grass. Standing still, I watch and laugh at the near miss.
I rarely pass a ruined house without a peek inside, but the timing is tight for the bus to Wick.
It’s the end of the day, yet I stride out like a new man, my back finally free of any pain, loosened after a few long days of walking. I feel strong, as though I could hike forever, stripped to a t-shirt in the cool, damp air. This is my place.
The Lybster bus stop is outside the post office. People probably think I’m mad, standing in the haar, eating a Classic Magnum. A tough day needs a reward. What a fantastic stretch of coastline — I’ll be back next month.
Total distance: 5,270 miles.
Loved the Dixe quote, the “intense despondent brooding” of a conifer plantation – must look him up. Glad to hear you’ve walked through the back trouble. 😄
Thanks. Setting off again in couple of days. That station has an interesting backstory. It was closed for a couple of years due to an ongoing land dispute with a couple that own the station house (or perhaps a house nearby). They were up in court recently for standing in front of trains!
“I’ve now hiked a continuous path clockwise from John O’Groats to Corrour Station”.
I am a little confused by this in terms of a coast walk! I assume you have followed the east coast but turned inland to get to Corrour somewhere, and missed out the coast further south? Or am I misunderstanding?
Either way, well done!
It is nice to see that John O Groats trail seems to be progressing and improving, despite some land owners (but presumably you could still roam over the land, even if they haven’t made it easy).
As to Altnabreac I am not sure if you are aware of the saga regarding the current owners of the station house there (now a private house). They claimed that as part of their ownership of the house, they also own the station, the platforms and even the tracks through the station, locked the gates at the level crossing and shouted at anyone trying to use the station, claiming they were trespassing on their garden. They have also been standing on the tracks to stop trains coming passed and preventing Scotrail staff from accessing the station at all. All this eventually led to the station being closed for a time. It did re-open again a year or so ago.
They launched various court cases about access to the station. I think so far they lost them all and the last one they failed to turn up at court. Ironically, they claimed this is because they can’t get there as their car is off the road and they are now banned from using the trains, so it is unreasonable to expect them to attend court. I think there is also a pending criminal case against them from Network Rail due to them standing in front of trains, which again the most recent hearing (I think a few weeks ago) they failed to turn up to citing health.
Ambiguous wording. I did not hike “clockwise” continually but now have a continous path clockwise from John O’Groats down the East coast of Scotland and round England and Wales and back up the West coast of Scotland to Corrour. Apart from 8 miles between Lybster and Whaligoe to be completed this week. 🙂
Yes, I read about that crazy couple. Land ownership does strange things to people.
Love the vole!
I did quite a bit of that stretch on the road, but in my case it was because the cliffs, while spectacular, proved too challenging in places for my poor head for heights (which is variable, and I was having an ‘off’ day).
There are quite a few sections that are not for hikers uncomfortable with heights. Especially if you find yourself on the wrong side of the fence!
Hello from your patio! We are having a lovely weekend. Lots of admiration for your walking achievements!
Hi Richard. Home and enjoying all the lovely food you left behind for me! 🙂