I read The Living Mountain by Nan Shepherd two years ago, but have not ventured into the Cairngorm Mountains until now. The Cairngorm Plateau has recorded both the lowest temperature (−27.2 °C) and the greatest wind speed (176 mph) in Britain. I’m hoping for rather milder weather in summer.
Filling up on coffee and pastries on a bench outside Aviemore railway station, a big German guy carrying a huge backpack asks if I can point out the location of Aviemore on his map, which is a little worrying given his plan to navigate through the glens to Braemar. He’s astonished at the size of my backpack. I doubt I could lift his.
It’s a beautiful morning to follow the Old Logging Way through the Scots pines to the campsite at Loch Morlich, where I’m based for the next three nights.
Ents watch for friend or foe.
Snoopy and Woodstock enjoy the outdoor life — I loved the Peanuts comic strip. I’m sure we all tried to draw Snoopy at some point in our lives.
Glemore Campsite is very busy, but the tents are well-spaced out, and it’s a lovely setting. Most tents have cars alongside, so I choose an open area near another backpacker, a bearded giant of a man, sitting in a chair watching me pitch. Searching beneath the trees for a heavy stone to bash the tent pegs into the hard ground, he wanders over to offer the rock he used. He’s a biker, just returned from trips round Orkney and the Outer Hebrides.
“Great tent. You’ve pitched that before.”
The Pine Marten serves very basic pub grub with fine real ale and “Teenage Dirtbag” playing. I’ll take two out of three.
Next day
Calmer weather is forecast for tomorrow, so the Cairngorm Plateau can wait, switching to a more straightforward hike up Bynack More today.
A rougher path winds up Strath Nethy. I’ll return one day to follow that into Loch Avon, set deep within the mountain range, where the views must be incredible.
The forecast was for 40 mph gusts, rain and possible thunder, but it’s wonderfully clear, if a little breezy. My backpack requires a few minor adjustments, as it’s no fun having your nipples whipped by loose straps. Some people might pay for that sort of thing — I’ll pass.
The ascent is along as broad a shoulder as you could find, with not a corrie in sight. It makes for a rather flat summit.
Munro number eight is celebrated in style with a fruit bun and a cuppa.
A young lad stops to chat, and we persuade each other to push over the summit and down the other side to find the Barns of Bynack, supposedly the finest feature of the mountain; I’m glad we did.
Returning by the same route, striking Scots pines line the valley floor.
An Lochan Uaine (“the Green Lochan”) would make a fine wild camping spot if you don’t mind sand.
There’s a cafe in the visitor centre opposite the campsite. I’m hoping for coffee and cake, but they are closing in 10 minutes, so it’s takeaway only. Grabbing a can of Coke, the woman at the till asks for £2.75.
“Are you serious?”
“I’m sorry.”
I hand it back and head for the pub to reflect on a beautiful day.
Total distance: 5,329 miles.
Looks like a fabulous walk – loved “The Living Mountain”, so beautifully written. £2.75 for a Coke is a bit steep, delivery costs maybe. 🤔
I need to reread the book in preparation for return trips. It’s a perfect book to take when backpacking as it’s so slim and light. I would have paid that to sit inside but not to take away.
That looked a good weather day for the Cairgorms.
Your visit to the Barns of Bynack reminds me of a time I was yraversin Scotland picking up Munroes. I climbed onto one of the rocks for a rest and a snack. Some time later down at the Fords of Avon I realised I didn’t have my glasses, hat and lunch box. I clmbed all the way back up there and of course they were sat at the top of the rock, where I had left them.
We’ve all left things behind. You were lucky it was calm enough that your hat was not blown away! 🙂
I admit to finding The Living Mountain quite boring. My bad probably.
Not at all. I struggled with it.
Lovely walk, I have camped and walked from the Glenmore campsite in the past, but I haven’t made it up Bynack More yet. That view eastwards past the Barns towards Ben Avon makes me hanker for a return visit. I love the pine woods of the Cairngorms too, something quite magical about them.
PS – “nipples whipped by loose straps”, made me laugh out loud!
PPS – Strath Nethy has a reputation for being quite boggy, I believe. The path on the OS map has a suspicious gap in it.
Ah yes. I’d not noticed the gap. I think it will be well worth a bit of bog.