Day 330: Ring of Steall

The Ring of Steall is a classic hike along ridges linking four Munros in the Mamores. Cal is my guide once more for the scramble across Devil’s Ridge. Ascending 5,603 feet, we will burn a few calories.

Leaving the car park, autumnal leaves cloak an impressive gorge walk next to the Water of Nevis.

The path opens into a beautiful glen, ringed by mountains, with the Steall Falls tumbling down 400 feet, the backdrop for a dragon chasing our hero in Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire.

A steel-cable bridge suspended over the river offers a dry crossing for the brave. Cal goes first. I’m a little slower; my arms are just long enough to reach the two upper cables. The single cable for my feet rotates unhelpfully near the far bank. Cal hopes to capture a comedic plunge. Not today, my son.

Beginning our ascent, the morning sun lights up the valley.

The summit of Ben Nevis rises through the clouds.

Something is following us — a Brocken spectre! The first one I’ve seen. Cal has his own. You can’t see another person’s spectre. The sun behind me casts my shadow onto the cloud below, replete with a “glory” — the rainbow ring around my head due to the sunlight refracting through water droplets in the air.

The views from the summit of An Gearanach are spectacular.

A quick father and son selfie to make the most of the blue sky, squinting into the sun.

Time to enter the clouds.

The panorama vanishes. All is shadow, rock and steep slopes.

Ptarmigans are so well camouflaged that we don’t notice them until they take to the air.

A white world of ridge walking.

We pass two more Munros: Stob Coire a’ Chàirn and Am Bodach. The path does not feel too exposed, apart from one section where I scramble along the side while Cal climbs straight over the top

I spoke too soon. The shattered rock of Devil’s Ridge looms. Cal takes a look. The initial scramble across the top looks manageable, but hidden along the ridge is a drop down into a tiny gully with a flat-topped rock pinnacle in the way. Cal has to pull himself up onto the top and swing round on his stomach to drop down the other side.

“Not one for you, Dad.”

I’m happy to take his advice. There’s a bypass down to the left with a short scramble back up. Two young lads follow my route, which makes me feel better.

There’s a final punishing climb up to Sgùrr a’ Mhaim, before a long descent over pale white quartzite stones that slide beneath our feet. I slip and put too much weight on my hiking pole — snap! That’s the second one, breaking the first on my Lofoten trip. Ah, well, I can match up the two spares.

Cal walks back to pick up the car, while I rest my very weary limbs and wait at the bottom of the path. It’s a short drive to Fort William and the Black Isle Bar for pizza and beer. The high street is buzzing with live music flowing out of every pub. The Royal National Mòd is taking place, Scotland’s premier Gaelic festival. That explains why the Travelodge was fully booked. I’m happier in Glen Nevis, even though it means a long walk into town.

Date of walk: Friday 17 October 2025.

Walk distance: 9 miles.

Total distance: 5,366 miles.