Day 335: Glenborrodale to Port Min

A lonely road winds for 36 miles from Strontian, where I finished my last trip, across the wild and remote Ardnamurchan Peninsula to a lighthouse perched at the most westerly point of Britain. I plan to follow the road and return along the northern coastline, crossing the centre of an extinct volcano and camping in sheltered bays.

The first challenge is to get to Strontian. After a long journey to Fort William, I’m forced to abandon my initial hike to Glenborrodale on the following day as the first sailing of the Corran ferry is cancelled due to high winds, and with it the minibus to Strontian. The only remaining option is the afternoon bus to Glenborrodale, so I while away the day, reading in coffee shops.

The bus sits on the small ferry deck. Peering out the window, I can see why the early morning run was cancelled.

We change buses at Strontian. The driver has her dog in a basket on the seat behind her. Primary school children board at Acharacle, and I’m given a preview of their Cinderella Christmas pantomime as various scenes are rehearsed by two young girls in the seat behind me.

I’m dropped off at the bottom of a long driveway through the trees to the excellent Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse, the comfortable en-suite rooms arranged round a central atrium with a pool table and table tennis table. To my surprise, I’m not alone. It’s full of tradesmen on a year-long contract to strip out and modernise the nearby Glenborrodale Castle, friendly guys with colourful tales to tell. I leave them to the drinking and the sounds of a ping pong ball. I’ve a long day tomorrow and an early start.

Next day

I’ve 20 miles of road walking ahead and only eight hours of daylight. My planned pitch spot is some distance off the road, so I don’t want to try to find it in the dark, which means setting off before sunrise into the crisp air.

I’m not the only early riser.

The road curves inland round Ben Hiant, the highest mountain on the peninsula, one I’d planned to climb on my spare day, which must now be used to fill the gap between Strontian and Glenborrodale.

Cresting a hill, magnificent views open up across to the Small Isles. There are three possible routes west: a shortcut across boggy moorland, a forest road, or the long loop of the main road. The horizon is so stunning and the weather so clear that, for once, I’m more than happy to continue on the road.

There are more cows than cars.

Deer surround a house, peacefully keeping the lawn manicured.

There’s not a lot to see in Kilchoan as I turn northwest, climbing past Lochan na Crannaig.

Nearing the coast, deer roam on both sides of a deer fence surrounding a private caravan park.

Unfortunately, the cafe at the lighthouse closes at the end of October, but the views are wonderful, across to Eigg …

… and Rum. I look forward to exploring them both next year.

Beneath the large fog horn, an unlocked viewing room offers sanctuary should the weather turn.

Ardnamurchan Lighthouse is a listed 19th-century lighthouse, the only lighthouse in the UK built in the Egyptian style.

Now I need to find my pitch spot. The coastline is boggy and rocky, with a faint trail here and there. It was a good call not to finish in the dark. Finally, I reach a sheltered bay with a perfect expanse of grass and freshwater nearby. Thank you, Quintin Lake.

There’s time to walk up to the nearby cairn marking the westernmost point of Britain. The fading light is gorgeous as I take a few final photos before burrowing into my warm winter sleeping bag to relax and enjoy the view. If only every wild camping spot could be like this. Apparently, there’s a storm down South.

Date of walk: Friday 14 November 2025.

Walk distance: 20 miles.

Total distance: 5,449 miles.