Day 348: Glenfinnan to Glen Dessarry

The Cape Wrath Trail is Britain’s most challenging long-distance trail. I’m excited to hike a small section in winter, covering 27 miles and 5,500 feet of ascent over two days from Glenfinnan to Inverie. On my last trip, I took the easy ferry option from Mallaig to Inverie. This time I’ll earn my pint (or two) at the Old Forge.

I’m carrying a full load to have the option of wild camping if I don’t fancy one of the bothies on route. It’s been raining for three weeks. Will the river crossings be in spate? Will the River Carnach plain be flooded? Snow is forecast, so I’ve packed crampons and an ice axe, although I don’t go higher than 2,000 feet. How much ice will there be? Will I make it to the Inverie bunkhouse given the limited daylight hours? So many unknowns. I’m not really sure what to expect, which adds to the thrill.

I travelled up to Fort William yesterday, which allows an early start on the train to Glenfinnan. A forest trail runs from the station platform. Some railway tracks are easier to cross than others.

The famous Harry Potter viaduct looks more attractive than it did on my visit a year ago. Light and perspective make such a difference.

A tarmac road leads up the glen beneath a gorgeous sky, giving me that familiar buzz of a great day ahead.

Deer are the only traffic.

The road leads to a rough track ascending to a bealach with a rather lonely gate. The mud is frozen solid, which makes progress easier on the flatter ground and less so on the slopes.

It’s a slow descent into the next glen, moving carefully over icy rocks. Stepping out of the shadow, the sun melts the ice, and I plunge through the hard crust into a bog. I give up wiping my boots in the long grass after the third bog.

The path crosses a burn several times, but the water levels are surprisingly low.

Descending to the River Pean, the trail vanishes into long grass, uneven ground and more bog. It’s a relief to reach a forest road. There’s even a sign for two bothies at a t-junction.

Foolishly expecting another sign at the next junction, I plough straight ahead, conscious of the limited remaining daylight hours, only to find myself heading the wrong way toward Strathan Bothy, but it’s worth it for the views. I turn round and retrace my steps up the hill to the junction.

There’s no way I can reach Sourlies Bothy without hiking in the dark, and this is not the terrain for that. It’s also a beautiful evening, and I’d rather spend the night under the stars than in a cold, dark, damp bothy. There’s a perfect clearing in the woods on a bend of the River Dessarry.

Pitched, fed and relaxing in my warm winter sleeping bag, snowflakes begin to tumble in the dark, somewhat earlier than forecast. This will make things interesting tomorrow, but tonight, it’s simply magical.

Date of walk: Friday 13 February 2026.

Walk distance: 14 miles.

Total distance: 5,592 miles.