The original plan was to bridge a gap on the Morvern peninsula, but I was never enthusiastic about the wild camping options. The unsettled weather and difficult transport logistics make my decision easier. I’ll relocate to Fort William and tackle a Munro tomorrow in the snow, a more exciting prospect.
The Glenuig bus stop has a little wooden hut to wait out of the cold and admire the view. Sadly, there’s only one bus a day, leaving so early that I miss my cooked breakfast.
Next day
I catch the dawn train to lonely Corrour Station, one of my favourite places, on my third visit and unlikely to be the last.
Gale-force gusts are forecast, so I chose Beinn na Lap as one of the safest Munros to climb, having a rounded grassy profile, free of crags, rocks and gulleys.
The track down to the youth hostel on Loch Ossian is icy beneath deep snow, so on with the crampons. I’m pleased to put them on correctly this time. A man walks past with skis on his back.
Leaving the track, the ascent is gentle but tiring in the deep snow. I’m soon overtaken by a father and son staying at the youth hostel.
The higher we go, the stronger the wind becomes, whipping up spindrift. With 250m ascent remaining, turning to the east, I can’t see a thing for the snow blowing into my eyes. I don’t have any goggles, which is another lesson learnt. I’m not worried about navigation. If my phone touchscreen freezes, I have my compass, and it’s a simple matter of heading west until I hit the railway line, but I need to see what’s in front of me.
The father and son stop, huddle for a chat, before trudging back down the hill to join me. The gusts are blowing the son backwards, being much lighter than his father, so it’s not safe to continue. The exposure will be much worse at the top. The MWIS warned of gusts approaching 60 mph on the downslopes, with wind chill feeling like -20C or colder. It’s an easy decision to join them, although my descent is somewhat slower.
Despite cutting the hike short, I still can’t make the earlier train back to Fort William, watching it crawl across the snowy landscape beneath Leum Uilleim, a Corbett made famous in Trainspotting. Was it really 30 years ago?
Unfortunately, this means I have four hours before the next train. Although there’s a small hut on the station platform, it’s a long time to sit still in these temperatures. Better to keep moving, so I make my way down to explore a frozen stream.
Although the wind speed is much lower down here, it still bites, so time to hunker down.
The hut offers shelter from the wind, but is open on one side, and after an hour of sitting, having drained my flask of hot coffee, the cold is beginning to seep through my layers, so I do a few exercises.
Two women appear with three very young children, including one beneath a blanket in a pushchair. Where on earth have they come from? I spread my arms wide.
“Welcome to my bothy. Is there room for one more under that blanket?”
The father, Richard, and son eventually join us. Our small band of winter travellers is happy to see the train arrive, and we pile aboard into the warmth. At Fort William, I head straight for the Ben Nevis Bar and a hot meal. By a strange coincidence, Richard and his son arrive at the table next to me, so we enjoy a fine chat. It’s been quite an adventure.
Next day
I’d planned another hike, but I’m so tired. I can’t face another early start in the dark, so I enjoy a Full Scottish at The Old Deli, my favourite place for breakfast in town, before browsing in the excellent Highland Bookshop, adding yet more books to my to-read pile.
Next day
I’ve timed my departure well, as the deluge has returned. The ever-reliable Ember bus takes me to Edinburgh, passing through Glen Coe, which is threatening and inhospitable, torrents of water tumbling down the mountainsides, dark grey clouds hiding the peaks. I’m glad to be warm and dry on the bus, heading for home.
I’ve a two-hour wait in Edinburgh for my train. Anyone for Sandy Bell’s?
Date of walk: Wednesday 18 February 2026.
Total distance: 5,624 miles.
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What a journey – I could feel the cold myself – there’s a hotel marked next to Corrour Station – was it closed? Never been to Sandy Bell’s but it looks inviting. It will be Spring soon but a bit later in the Highlands of course.
There’s a cafe on the station but closed for the winter season. Sandy Bell’s has live folk music every evening and often in the afternoon, as well as being friendly with great beer. Funny, I have two hours to spare on this trip too. 😉
Perhaps the most imoortant asset for mountain walking is having the pragmatism and judgement to turn back before it is too late. The conditions in that video look horrenhdous. A massive contrast to my ascent of Beinn na Lap on 13th June 2008 during my LEJOG (I was 68 at the time.) I arrived at the youth hostel early enough to nip up for an easy summer ascent and then on to stay overnight at Corrour. Beth Campbell was the welcoming hostess – venison bolognese to die for. I’m impressed by your progress to date.
LEJOG at 68 is a fine achievement. Your talk of venison is making me hungry. The weather over the past few days has defeated me on my Knoydart ascents, but I’m more than happy to return to one of my favourite places.
Corrour station in the snow – magic.
Wild! You are a brave man even attempting the hill in those conditions.