Day 355: Sgorr Dhonuill & Sgorr Dhearg

The bunkhouse and every other bed in the village are already booked for May, with up to 200 tents by the shore like a Viking invasion. The tiny facilities are overrun. Leyla, today’s duty manager, grimaces.

“Why so many people?”

“Instagram. We get red-faced men hiking in over the mountains in only Celtic shirts, shorts and trainers.”

That’s not a sight I wish to experience, so I’ll push north in April.

The ferry to Mallaig resumes after lunch, docking on the near side of the jetty to avoid damage from the strong swell.

It’s a choppy crossing, especially when the vessel turns side on to the waves, rolling to demonstrate why it did not sail yesterday. I’ve missed the ferry to Eigg, and the next one isn’t until Wednesday, so I’ll regroup at Fort William, where the winds may be less disruptive.

Next day

So much for less disruption, as the MWIS warns of 70 mph winds — grounded again. To round out a day of cafe reading over coffee, Film on Four in the Travelodge features Jessie Buckley in the excellent, gritty Wild Rose and a one-dimensional Hugh Grant in the transparent, emotionally manipulative Notting Hill, both movies I’ve watched before.

I’m also just a girl, standing in front of a boy, asking him to love her.

Yes, I’m still manipulated. Julia Roberts gets me every time.

Next day

Fine weather at last! I’m on the first bus to Ballachulish, a village I’ve hiked through twice now, on the way into Glen Coe.

I’m hoping to climb two Munros, Sgorr Dhonuill & Sgorr Dhearg, that I passed under on my coast walk. Sgorr Bhan, at 947m, is a visible peak that lies just below the Munros, connected by a ridge.

There are two possible routes. The more challenging Schoolhouse Ridge has a couple of “straightforward scrambles, with one short pitch at Grade 1”. Nothing is straightforward for me when it comes to scrambling, but I need to overcome my fears.

The first scramble is not too bad, but the second looms over me, and cracks creep into my resolve. The guide describes a less exposed route up a gully to the left, so I pick my way across the steep rocky slope, although the path is not entirely clear.

Is this the right gully? I’m not sure, but venture up. It’s steep with a drop at the bottom that I’d not wish to tumble off, so I pack away my hiking poles and pull myself up, trying to keep off the scree. I’m conscious of not climbing a section that I’m unable to descend if necessary, so I glance over my shoulder, which is a mistake, as it looks even more precipitous.

Turning a corner, there’s snow where the gully opens up left and right round a rock face. Oh oh. It’s too steep to stop and put on my crampons, and I’m no longer sure of the right line. Left or right? I try the less exposed left, using my bare hands to dig holes in the snow for handholds and footholds. It’s only a small patch of snow, but enough to have my heart pounding, outside my comfort zone again.

I’m relieved to rejoin the path. There’s no way I’m descending back that way. I’ll take the easier route down and spend some time consulting the map to identify my escape route, which lies across a snowy bank to my right and is very manageable. I can relax now, happy to push on into the cloud.

There are dramatic views from the summit of Sgorr Bhan.

This is as far as I go. I suspect the south face of the ridge is clear, at least to the first Munro summit, but the exit down a north-facing gully is likely to be full of snow, forcing me to retrace my steps. I’m content to enjoy the view.

The alternative route down is a breeze compared to the ascent.

Schoolhouse Ridge slices the clouds. I’m happy to view it from a distance.

The balmy weather and gorgeous views slow my descent, stopping frequently to sit and admire the scenery. To the west lies Ballachulish Bridge and the coast road to Fort William.

To the east, the Pap of Glencoe rises above Loch Leven, guarding the entrance to the glen. I close my eyes, feel the light breeze on my face and listen to my most recent folk discovery, Joshua Burnside, singing the beautiful Far Away the Hills Are Green.

Back in the village, there’s time for a coffee in the cafe while I wait for the bus to arrive. It’s been a fine day to be out in the mountains. Oh yes, my pulse is back to normal.

Date of walk: Wednesday 18 March 2026.

Walk distance: 11 miles.

Total distance: 5,666 miles.