Day 5: Faversham to Herne Bay

Faversham is still asleep as I pick up the trail again from the town pump on a beautiful, clear, crisp November morning. I am excited at the prospect of tracking down traces of one of my childhood Hammer horror film stars later in the day.

Oyster Bay House.

A group of restoration enthusiasts are discussing the day’s work over coffee in Iron Wharf Boatyard. This one would be quite a challenge!  

The Swale for the third and final time.
Strange local rituals?

After four days of rivers, tidal channels, and creeks, I know I have arrived at the seaside.   They don’t write them like this anymore.

Whitstable Harbour is lively and attractive. The smell of fresh seafood is tempting but my plans lie elsewhere.

The Tudor Tea Rooms entice me in for carrot cake and, more importantly, a signed poem by Peter Cushing. It’s much smaller than expected so I apologise to the ladies sitting nearby as I walk across to take a picture. I have no shame. After coffee, it takes me quite a while to find his old house with a blue plaque by the seafront. It has seen better days, with peeling white weatherboard. It looks a little gothic. You can almost imagine Michael Ripper peering out from a window to issue a warning not to linger as night falls and slamming the shutters tight.

With “Lockdown 2” about to premiere, even beer at 99p a pint does not tempt me to linger in the Wetherspoons “Peter Cushing” converted cinema, although I take a couple of photos in the lobby. Instead, I enjoy an excellent pint of Goacher’s Fine Light Ale at The Ship Centurion nearby, together with a few locals trying to drain the barrels dry before prohibition.

Leaving the town, I walk to Herne Bay and explore the pier. It is one of 56 remaining piers in England and Wales. I make it two down and 54 to go. At 3,787 ft it was the second longest pier in England, sadly destroyed in a storm in 1978. The sun is setting and I have no Van Helsing to protect me so I head for the train station and the safety of home.

Walk distance: 15 miles.

Total distance: 79 miles.

7 thoughts on “Day 5: Faversham to Herne Bay”

  1. Hi Tony, great to see someone enjoying Real Ale. I think I might have already said that it was in January 2020 when I was last in a pub! As you continue along the coast, lockdowns permitting, a veritable feast of new and excellent ales await you. St Austell Ales in Cornwall, Brains in Cardiff, Thwaites in Lancaster, Batemans in Wainfleet (Lincs) and Adnams in Southwold, to name but a few. Adnams and Batemans do brewery tours and Adnams have a large off-licence store in Southwwold and Aldeburgh.
    Would have loved to visit the ‘Spoons in Whitstable, but I was on big day which meant continuing on to Birchington from Faversham.

    1. Hi Alan. My CAMRA guide is as important as my OS Explorer map when it comes to planning a walk. I am really looking forward to pubs re-opening. Thanks for the recommendations. I have tried most of those brewers at various times but often many years ago and they will all be duly honoured

  2. I will always have a fond spot in my heart for Whitstable. After miles of marshes, it finally felt like being by the seaside, just as you noticed too. Even better, my cheap little single room in a seaside hotel was upgraded to a large double room overlooking the sea front! I didn’t realise the Peter Cushing connection at the time, but your visit to the cafe sounds a real treat.

    1. Yes, while marshes have their own beauty, I was very happy to see waves for the first time on my journey.

  3. I loved this section although I nearly ended up a statistic of the mud coming off thebeach at the nature reserve leading towards Faversham…I attempted to walk across what looked like solid ground…and sank up to my knees 😂😂😂 Nearly lost my shoes and had to take my feet out in order to extricate the shoes. Needless to say I won’t do that again!!
    But love love Whitstable…

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