The 78 mile walk from Padstow to Westward Ho! is considered to be the toughest section of the SWCP. I am not sure how far I will get with only three full days of hiking, plus the two travel days, to and from home. The awful weather forecast adds to the uncertainty. There is also a lack of public transport around the remote Hartland Point on a Sunday, my planned finish day. I will just have to see how it goes.
The train takes me as far as Bodmin Parkway, where I have a long wait for the bus to Padstow. It is well timed though, as a plume of smoke and steam rises from the trees, heralding the arrival of a wonderful steam locomotive, slowly chugging into the nearby platform on the Bodmin and Wenford heritage railway.
I rejoin the path around 1pm, and the weather is nicer than I expected. The walking around Padstow Bay is gentle, with lots of sandy beaches. My right bicep is still sore. Not sure if it is the gardening or the hiking poles, but I can’t lift much weight with it. Some may say I never could! I am only using my left pole as an experiment.
I take a wrong turn at the end of Daymer Bay, but pass some gorgeous houses and gardens, before making my way back to the coastal path.
The terrain is more challenging after Port Quinn and I am glad to reach Port Isaac in the early evening. Unfortunately, the Golden Lion, my planned meal stop, is closed, so I push on to Port Gaverne. The Pilchards inn is part of a hotel, and the barmaid tells me it is reservations only, and they are full. My slumped shoulders must do the trick, as she has a word with the chef, and they squeeze me in. My luck is holding! However, it is an expensive set menu only, and not really what I wanted, so I thank her, and fall back on my trusty pint of Tribute and crisps. Going forward, I will eat wherever I find food, regardless of the time of day, as there are a shrinking number of options, especially as I move into less populated areas.
Brooklands Farm campsite is just up the lane from the hotel. Ann, the owner, tells me I have the field to myself and to choose a sheltered spot, as heavy wind and rain is forecast overnight. She kindly recharges my phone. A basic, but perfect site for £5, just off the path. Time to brew up a coffee, with the delicious caramel shortbread that I packed for emergencies. My backpack is up to 11Kg now with more food supplies, a warmer base layer, and more socks! I am working up to carrying food to make my own meals. Yum!
Walk distance: 13 miles.
Total distance: 846 miles.
What flavour were the crisps?
Cheese and onion…there can be no other!
Yes, it’s a tough section, but looked like you had wonderful weather. Such a disappointment to find closed pubs, isn’t it. May I suggest you add a packet of peanuts to eat with your crisps, for the protein 😁
Duly noted! I will be cooking my own food at some point, so that should be interesting.
You do a lot better then me for eating Tony. I carry loads of unhealthy rubbish with me to munch along the way, and often end up feeling a little bit nauseous with it by the end! I really should do something about it…..
I remember riding my motorbike from Launceston to Port Isaac when I was about 19, and running out of petrol at the bottom. I had to push it about 4 miles up that hill out of Port Isaac to the nearest petrol station. That’s the only time I’ve ever been to PI. Not the greatest memories!!!
I keep meaning to try my hand at baking some flapjack. I was given an excellent recipe from the wife of a friend who joined me on an earlier walk. I am trying to cut down on the crisps with my beer….after a few days on a previous walk, I could not face another crisp without my stomach turning!