The campsite owner shows me a quicker way back to the coast path, so it is still early morning when I crest a hill and get a breathtaking view of The Valley of Rocks. One of those magic moments.
The sun appears, creating a beautiful rainbow, only fleeting, before the rain and dark clouds roll back in. Perfect timing.
The feral goats are clambering across the rocks, hard to make out through the rain. This triggers a poor rendition of “The Lonely Goatherd”. Thankfully, there is no-one else around.
It is not far to pretty Lynmouth. I enjoy reading the poems on the Poet’s Walk, as it zigzags down the hill.
The afternoon takes me into lovely woodland, where the trees are reclaiming the path. I have crossed into Somerset.
Ancient Culbone Wood is dripping with lush vegetation: ferns, mosses and lichens. It is an Atlantic Oakwood which is often described as Britain’s temperate rainforest. The rain has swollen the small waterfalls, crossing the path at intervals.
My hiking poles stop me falling in, as I carefully hop from stone to branch.
As it is Friday night, and my last night on the SWCP, I planned ahead and actually booked a table for once, at the Ship Inn in Porlock. It does mean a bit of a route-march over the last couple of miles to make it in time for my booking. A delicious meal, rounded off with apple crumble. It’s also an appropriate celebration for passing the 1,000 mile mark. Only another 5,500 miles to go. Actually, I have no idea how far it will be, if I start island hopping in Scotland.
Spark Hayes campsite is just around the corner, and easy to find in the dark. I really enjoyed today, a beautiful stretch of the coastline.
Walk distance: 17 miles.
Total distance: 1,005 miles.
Well that’s the first thousand under your belt! More to come (and more cake and beer). Well done.
Thanks Peter. Hopefully the hiking will offset the cake and beer!
Valley of the rocks certainly is spectacular approaching from the west. I’ve done that part several times but always east to west.
Hi Paul. I went there with the family a long time ago, and I think we came in from the other direction. It was quite something to just walk along the toll road and then it all came into view.
This is surely one of the best walks on the whole South West Coast Path. The approach to the Valley of the Rocks from the west is really spectacular too. I stayed at the same campsite when doing this stretch. The pub in Porloch used to do takeaway pizza if they were full up, which was handy. Don’t know if they still do.
I agree. A lovely way to (almost) complete the SWCP.
Valley of the Rocks is amazing and the rainbow picture perfectly timed. Congratulations on completing the first 1000 miles.
Thanks Karen. The next 1,000 should see me round Wales. Really looking forward to that.