Rannoch Moor, 50 square miles of boggy moorland, is said to be one of the last remaining wildernesses in Europe. Fortunately, a path runs east from the Kingshouse Hotel to Rannoch Station, where I can catch a train to Fort William, home for the next five nights.
A rough road eases the first few miles. To my surprise, a car and a garbage truck rumble past. Where is there to go?
One final look back at Buachaille Etive Mòr.
The road ends at Black Corries Lodge, a luxury resort for fishing and shooting, hidden in the trees. The hounds bay as I follow the perimeter fence.
There are uplifting signs of reforestation, with young Scots pine and birch fenced off from nibbling deer.
The road, having served its purpose, soon vanishes into the moorland. A rough trail follows the line of the power cables. It’s a desolate place, echoes of the Arctic Circle Trail. Robert Louis Stevenson was not impressed:
A wearier looking desert a man never saw.
Kidnapped
I’m surrounded by emptiness, the lochs only visible as narrow ribbons. It’s a place to experience. You can’t capture it in a photograph down here. The mountains were the place for that.
The path joins a long forest road to the charming station, where a coach tour party enjoys the views and pepper me with questions once they notice my backpack.
I’m familiar with the Fort William Travelodge now. The best thing about it is the excellent Black Isle Bar next door, with a lovely ambience, tasty wood-fired pizzas, and a pint or two of Blonde. I may be back.
Next day
Trains are few and far between, so I’m on the first one out of Fort William back to Rannoch. The well-kept visitor centre offers refreshments via an honesty box.
It’s a beautiful morning, although the temperature feels below zero.
Since returning from my New Zealand hikes, surrounded by birdsong and trees, I’ve noticed how quiet this landscape is, especially when I approach a lonely wooded grove and music fills the air. Fenced sections of new trees are spread across the valley. Will this support wildlife, hopping from one refuge to another, or is the goal to allow the trees to reseed and fill the gaps naturally? I can’t see the latter happening unless the deer are kept out or culled.
Woodland has shrunk from covering 70% of Scotland 5,000 years ago to around 17%. The goal is to increase woodland cover to 21% by 2032, despite the dominance of sporting estates, which have seen deer numbers rise from 180,000 in the 1960s to 400,000 in 2010, and the current population of wild deer is estimated at around 1 million. (National Trust Scotland 2021)
As the track climbs the hillside, wonderful views open to the Blackwater Reservoir and the mountains. Tiny carriages on the West Highland Railway rattle across the moors in the distance like a model train set.
Scenic Loch Ossian appears.
What a stunning descent to Corrour Station. A youth hostel hides among the trees at the end of the loch.
The remote Corrour Station, inaccessible by public roads, is the highest mainline station in the UK at 410 metres above sea level. I hope the train arrives as it’s six hours until the next one — life on the trail.
Date of walk: Monday 17 March & Tuesday 18 March 2025.
Walk distance: 24 miles.
Total distance: 4,915 miles.
Shocking statistics for the loss of woodland in Scotland…………..we walked across Rannach Moor many moons ago but I can’t remember from where to where. All I know is that it poured for hours and I can still hear the squelch of wet feet which accompanied every step. 🫤
I was lucky with the weather this trip. I’m sure I’ll soon be back to drying wet socks on the back of my backpack.
Wow that looks amazing especially in those conditions. I want to do the walk between Rannoch and Corrour especially. Such a remote area and you can get a train to and from the start and there are very few stations with no road access.
I think you can stay at Corrour but I am not sure if they have the announcement system setup the same as my location station, which seems to be programmed that there cannot be > 1 minute without an announcement (and if no trains are due announce some health and safety drivel instead). If they do I am not sure how much sleep you would get!
You can definitely stay at Corrour, although I’m not sure how expensive it is. There is also a Youth Hostel close by. There aren’t many trains running through so I’m sure you would get a good sleep! 🙂