North Downs Way: Day 10

Setting off from Wye on the alternate route to Dover via Folkestone, Farage’s doughty opponent, Count Binface, is out early on the campaign trail.

It’s straight back up on the downs. I seem to have missed the view of the giant Wye Crown, carved into the chalk hillside in June 1902 for the coronation of Edward VII.

I’ve hiked up through the Devil’s Kneading Trough before, one of the attractions of this section.  

I’m pleased to see so many butterflies, if only they’d keep still long enough to catch them on camera!

The trail descends to cross the valley floor at Stowting before climbing up the opposite side, where a cool breeze greets me at the summit.

A couple with a dog almost catch up to me while I stop to take a photograph and, keen to stay ahead of them, I push on without checking the map. This is a costly mistake as I end up on the busy B2068 with fast cars streaming past and no verge, forcing me into the hedgerows. I should be on the other side, but there’s no way through. It takes some time to reach the safety of the official path once more.

The radio and weather stations near Etchinghill dominate the horizon.

This seems a rather dubious formation.

More sensible.

The rolling hills and coastal views make this route far more enjoyable than the Canterbury option, regardless of the Channel Tunnel Station dominating the foreground.

Enthused by the latest series of Clarkson’s Farm, I’m happy to pause and watch a combine in action, until the wind drives a cloud of dust into my eyes.

At this point I leave the official path to Dover and take random tracks down through the trees and under a flyover into Folkestone.

The sea is reached, and the famous white cliffs stretch away. There’s a Gormley statue under the pier that I missed on my coast walk, but I still can’t find it. Perhaps it’s only accessible when the tide is out?

I remember the striking shingle horizon line and sculpture from the first year of my coast walk, a fitting end to this North Downs Way interlude. With my post-operation rehabilitation complete, it’s time to prepare for strenuous mountains on the popular Tour du Mont Blanc, another hike from my 100 Hikes of a Lifetime.

Dates of walk: Saturday 18 July 2026.

Walk distance: 20 miles.