The steep initial climb from Otford village to the top of the downs is a heavy-headed struggle, penance for the late-night ales with my friend Marcus in the convivial beer garden of our local folk club. After a couple of stops to let people stride past, I make it onto the open summit grassland, and it’s not long before a pastoral view of Kemsing village appears through the trees.
The path winds through woodland, where I’m surprised to find a dancing bull in my way.
A cross on the edge of the hillside catches my eye, and I make a small detour for a closer look. There’s no inscription, but nearby Oak Hall is a Christian centre, so perhaps it’s connected.
As usual, the trail descends to join the Pilgrims’ Way for a while, skirting colourful fields into Wrotham. I’m forced to step aside for unwelcome off-road motorbikers.
Another climb takes me to Trosley Country Park cafe, busy with cyclists. I join them for carrot cake and coffee.
Suitably fortified, a lovely long woodland walk ends at another vineyard at Cuxton. Vineyards are our fastest-growing agricultural sector, a testament to climate change.
There are a surprising number of ascents remaining, each exposed to the baking sun.
Stepping into an underpass to reach the road bridge over the River Medway, I’m immediately hit with the smell of paint fumes: an artist is spraying the wall. I want to take a photo, but he’d likely not be too keen, so I don’t stop, emerging into sunlight and crossing the river into Rochester where The Cooper’s Arms awaits with my reward for 20 miles in the heat.
Day 6
I’m back in Rochester on a busy Sunday morning, people queuing for the cathedral service. I’d attend if I had time.
Perhaps I best not trespass today.
The first climb offers fine views back across the Medway valley.
The ancient dead rest at Kit’s Coty House, a chambered long barrow 6,000 years old. I’m definitely not trespassing here.
Boxley Country Park offers welcome shade, albeit at the cost of many steps.
Some way markers need a keen eye.
It’s 2 pm, and I’m sweltering with seven miles still to go. Like an oasis in the desert, although this one’s no mirage, I stop off at The Cock Horse in Detling for a pint of 60 Years of Hurst, created specially for the World Cup.
Returning to the woodland, a strange spiritual economic promotion awaits. Of course, I can’t resist opening the box, and take a booklet, Symphony in Stardust, to learn more, crazy theories or not.
My hiking poles have remained in my backpack until now, but this is a tough section in the heat, and with only three miles remaining, out they come. At the next summit, I watch a radio-controlled glider swoop and soar, at one point heading for a mysterious rift in the sky.
Hollingbourne sighted!
Another 19 miles completed. Who could resist an 11th-century monk’s ale house on the Pilgrim’s Way, especially when it’s named The Dirty Habit? A fine pub, serving Sussex Harvey’s, one of my favourites.
Dates of walks: Saturday 20 June & Sunday 28 June 2026.
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Surely that bull can’t be real (or is it?). I still can’t decide. I love downland but some of the steep bits can be very vicious for a gentle looking landscape.
The bull should remain enigmatic.
You were well sustained with drinks. I know it is not possible to spend much time on longish walks stopping off to explore all items of interest, but I just wondered if you missed a tour round the vineyard. Perhaps fortunate, the free tastings of sharp English white may not have mixed well with the odd pints later on.
Great shot of the glider! We’re dealing with driech Cumbrian weathre at the moment – hard to imagine baking heat…🫤