Day 360: Ladhar Bheinn

Ladhar Bheinn, pronounced “Laar Ven” or “Laar Vain” depending on who I ask, is the highest peak in Knoydart at 3,350 ft, regarded by hillwalkers as one of the finest mountains in Scotland. Sunny weather is forecast, so I’m aiming to complete the ridge circuit and make good on my failed attempt last month, when the rocky slopes were covered in snow. I’m on the road by 7 am, keen to make the most of the beautiful day.

The initial track, very familiar, arcs gently up the glen amid the sound of spring cuckoos. Young bucks try to impress the hinds. Do women really go for this sort of thing? A stag strolls past, dismissive of the youthful antics. I imagine him rolling his eyes: wait until you try me.

https://youtu.be/CgRJRupqeWI?si=GH-4BVAVeuvE1jXS

I leave the track at the loch, beginning the pathless, steep ascent up to Mam Suidheig. It’s tough going, soon hot and down to my base layer, but I’ve plenty of time to rest and admire the views that open up rapidly. The clouds are forecast to thin out as the day wears on, so I’m not in any hurry to reach the summit.

Cresting the peaty bealach, the route ahead looks exciting and promises spectacular views.

The famous Cuillin mountain range on Skye lies across the water. I’ll need to call on Cal’s mountain leader skills when I tackle that.

The path rises and falls, passing through a high gully.

Turning onto the main ridge leading up to the summit, towering crags fall away into a corrie.

Loch Hourn and Barrisdale Bay are visible in the distance.

A woman appears from the opposite direction, the first person I’ve met today. She’s planning to wild camp in one of the high corries between the two Munros to the east, another hardy soul.

The toughest section lies ahead, requiring a small amount of scrambling. With perfect timing, the wind picks up. I pack my poles away and shelter behind a rock for an energy-boosting Kit Kat while I read the Walkhighlands guide again.

Halfway up, I face a smooth rock face, about head height, with only a tiny indent for the toes of my right foot. It’s not exposed, but you don’t want to fall back down the steep rocky slope. With a big step up, I grab the top of the outcrop and launch myself up off my right foot. Ouch! I picked up two small hernias about a year ago and have been on the NHS waiting list for about a year. The op is due when I get back, which is just as well. I don’t want to do that again.

From the summit, there are spectacular views in all directions, but the ridge line leading to the Cuillin takes my breath away. I rest and lean against my pack. It’s a funny old world. If not for the impassable river earlier in the week, I would not be sitting on top of the world in glorious weather, such are the highs and lows of backpacking, one amplifying the other.

The descent retraces my hike last month, and I’m soon back at my favourite river. Knoydart has given me so many wonderful experiences and memories over the past few months. Perhaps my ashes could be spread here, just a small pinch in the water from each of the children, followed by a toast in the Old Forge. Now, that would be quite the send-off. I’d like that. Not for a while, though.

Back at the pub, young adults, many with dogs, enjoy the balmy evening, drinking on the grass outside. The sunset is gorgeous. How many times have I photographed this stunning view of the Rum Cuillin? A magical end to a fine day.

Date of walk: Tuesday 21 April 2026.

Walk distance: 14 miles.

Total distance: 5,742 miles.