Day 58: Newquay to Porthcothan

It rained all night, but everything is nice and dry, including my socks. I solved my drying dilemma by putting them in my sleeping bag overnight, the only warm place in the tent.

The Gannel estuary can be crossed by foot at low tide. Unfortunately, the small pontoon has a section missing. The crossing is private and closed until 9.30am.

I head upriver to find the next crossing.

Despite the early hour, Fistral Beach is teeming with surfers, summoned by the strong wind and foaming waves. I push on through Newquay before it gets too busy.

I hear the roar of revving engines above the wind. A rally car blasts along the coastal road. I join a few spectators with a great view of a sharp bend and hill climb. It is the Watergate Sprint motorsport event.

Today is all about the ferocity of the sea. It demands attention. The relentless power of waves crashing against unyielding rocks.

A moment of calm, as a Cornish chough stands on the clifftop path, only a few feet away. I watch it for a while before carefully skirting round, to leave it undisturbed.

I am about to explore a small cove when someone beckons me. Two women from British Divers Marine Life Rescue are monitoring a three week old seal pup. A male appears to be preventing the mother from feeding her pup. The volunteers are keeping the cove clear of people, to avoid scaring the mother away permanently. I sit for a while, quietly chatting and learning, before heading on to nearby Porthcothan.

Carnevas Holiday Park has a couple of large fields to pitch in, and I choose a sheltered spot. The tent is up quickly, and I walk down the road to the Tredrea Inn, which has some fine views of the sea, and the most delicious fish and chips, washed down with a pint of Doombar.

Walk distance: 15 miles.

Total distance: 819 miles.