The storms have passed, so time to head back to Pembrokeshire. My pack only weighs 11.5Kg for a week’s hiking, including The Old Ways, which I will try to read despite always falling asleep early in the tent.
To avoid re-tracing the dull road walk from Pembroke, and to see the cliffs that I passed warily in the windswept dark last week, I leave the train at Lamphey. It’s a short stroll down to the dunes at Freshwater East. A tiny dog wants to play but stubbornly refuses to give me her ball, as they do.
The fields are full of tiny lambs; spring is on the way. The sun lights up the gorgeous red sandstone layers.
I take a detour inland, just in time to meet a herd of cows, stretched out in a long line, intent on reaching their tea-time rendezvous with the farmer. I slot into the middle of the column and walk along with them, chatting as usual.
My destination is the Devil’s Quoit. It’s one of the Dancing Stones of Stackpole, three ancient standing stones said to meet on a certain day each year, where they dance until dawn to a tune played by the Devil on his flute, before returning to their positions. The stone is believed to mark a Bronze Age communal gathering place or ceremonial centre.
The inland loop takes me back to the lovely Lily Ponds and the 18th century limestone Eight-Arch Bridge that I missed last week.
I arrive at Broad Haven beach for the third time. The heron is here again, seemingly comfortable with the people nearby. I film it for a while, but its ability to stand motionless for long periods exceeds my patience, so I move on down to the sea.
Trefalen Farm camp site feels familiar now. A couple and their daughter are sitting round an open fire next to their caravan.
“Have you read The Salt Path?”
“No, but I’m heading into Bosherston for a pint and some food at St Govan’s Country Inn.”
Dad is tempted to abandon his family to the camp fire, but stays put. He watches me head down the lane. I’m half-expecting footsteps.
I return in the dark. Standing outside my tent, the stars are so clear and bright. I pick out the Big Dipper, or is it the Little Dipper? Something else to add to my never ending learning list; be good to have some basic star navigation skills. I try to read, but as predicted, fall asleep quickly.
Walk distance: 8 miles.
Total distance: 1,483 miles.
Great post Tony, much of this area is familiar to me so I always appreciate seeing photos and highlights captured by other walkers along the way . Hope you enjoyed the pint at St. Govan’s Inn!
Thanks Rich. I was a little worried as I arrived at 6pm to find the place in darkness, but the lights came on and I was warmly welcomed. A lovely pint and a nice curry I recall. Sounded like it was popular with surfers.