I’m up early, excited about today’s walk, which covers some of the highlights of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path.
It’s Saturday, and all the red flags are furled, allowing me access through the Castlemartin firing range. The Carboniferous Limestone cliffs and stacks are spectacular.
St Govan’s Chapel is tucked away in a small gully, built into the cliffs. The entrance is invisible from above, hidden at the bottom of steep steps. It’s tiny; only 20 by 12 feet.
It’s hard to imagine living any closer to the sea. What a wild place this must have been for a hermit.
The cliffs step down toward the sea, with giant ledges. I explore a few.
Huntsman’s Leap is a deep chasm. Folklore has it that a hunter jumped across on his horse. On looking back and seeing the sheer drop below, he died of shock. I’m not trying my long jump skills.
After Cornwall, I recognise the distinctive cry of a chough, and sure enough, I spot a pair on the cliff-top. They are rather outnumbered by the thousands of guillemots clinging to the magnificent Elegug Stacks.
Are they guillemots or razorbills? I can’t tell from this distance.
The next section of coastline is in the restricted area of the firing range, only accessible on certain days with a guide, so I’m forced inland along a fairly dull stretch of minor roads. There are several tanks on manoeuvres; bound for Eastern Europe no doubt.
Rounding a bend, the sea returns, with a gorgeous view of Freshwater West; the sand dotted with coloured stones.
Leaving the beach, the section to Angle is a lot tougher than I expected, crossing several steep valleys. The strong, gusty wind makes it hard going. The farmer at St Govan’s Head was right to warn me not to try this section during Storm Eunice.
I pick up a posse of five young goats, all excited and eager to eat my poles, my backpack, and my trouser pockets. They get under my feet and bump into me as I try to descend the narrow path. I can’t stop laughing.
After a mile of their fine company, I must sadly leave them behind.
I hope to make it to a pub in Angle in time to watch Wales v England, but the terrain is relentless.
The path finally turns round into Milford Haven, giving me the first sight of the fuel tankers that will accompany me for the next couple of days.
The Hibernia Inn is, naturally, packed with welsh supporters, so I stand quietly at the back, nursing my refreshing pint of Gower Gold, and muting my celebrations when England hold on for a narrow win. I stay for dinner and have a lovely chat wtih the family at the next table. The grandparents are keen hikers and tell me about walking the Camino. They have a sweepstake on guessing my age. I will take 50 very happily!
The landlady kindly allows me to pitch in the garden. I have a few lingering fears of retribution for the rugby, with a collapsing guy line or two, but it seems a small price to pay. A perfect ending to a fine day.
Walk distance: 15 miles.
Total distance: 1,498 miles.
Spectacular! Wish I was there. I hope your walking poles are intact after the encounter with the goats!
I think I lost a couple of inches!
I remember that section Tony. It’s a beautiful stretch of the Pembrokeshire coast… At the road junction to Castle Martin, I seem to recall being saved from a 2-3 hour wait for the bus by a couple who gave a lift to the pub at Angle, where we were staying and would not accept any payment.
The farmer mentioned there was a bus service, although infrequent. That was a nice gesture. I’m not sure the tanks were taking passengers. 🙂
Tony, Great photos as usual and enjoyed reading your take on this walk, including some locals joining you along the way! It’s a tough stretch between Fresh West to Angle, as you’ve described. We walked Nolton Haven to Solva yesterday, a lot of climbs and 100’s of steps on quite steep hills along almost 9 miles, so this will help get your hamstrings prepared for that, albeit some way ahead!
Thanks Rich. I was warned about the challenge ahead!
Lovely photos and look like great weather. The goats are hilarious and very naughty! I agree, that last section to Angle is much tougher than expected.
Thanks Ruth. I assume they thought I was the farmer. It’s my own fault for chatting to them too much at the start. 🙂